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Fashion · 6 min read

Black tie optional: what women should wear

What black tie optional means for women: floor-length or dressy midi dresses, fabrics, shoes, jewelry and what to skip, with a comparison to black tie and cocktail.

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The short answer

Black tie optional means formal evening wear without a strict gown requirement. A floor-length dress is always safe, and a dressy midi in satin, crepe or velvet usually works.

  • Skip day fabrics, short club dresses and white or ivory.
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Black tie optional means the hosts would like formal evening wear but will not insist on a full black-tie gown. For women, the safe answer is a floor-length dress or a very dressy midi in an elegant fabric such as satin, crepe, velvet or chiffon, with polished shoes and dressy jewelry.

What to wear

  • A floor-length gown or maxi dress. This is the safest option and always acceptable.
  • A dressy midi or tea-length dress in a luxe fabric such as satin, silk, crepe, velvet or beaded chiffon, if you want a shorter look.
  • An elegant jumpsuit or formal separates in satin or crepe, with a statement earring, will also work in many places.

What to skip

  • Short cocktail dresses unless the invitation is relaxed about it
  • Day fabrics such as cotton, linen and casual knit
  • Anything that looks like a nightclub outfit
  • White, ivory or cream
Black tie optional vs black tie vs cocktail
Black tieBlack tie optionalCocktail
Dress lengthFloor-lengthFloor-length or dressy midiKnee-length to midi
FabricsSilk, satin, velvet, beadingSatin, crepe, velvet, chiffonSatin, crepe, lace, dressy knit
ShoesHeeled sandals or pumpsDressy heels or flatsHeels or dressy flats
JewelryStatement or fineStatement or fineSimple to statement

Shoes, bag and jewelry

  • Shoes: heeled sandals or pumps, or an elegant flat if you will be on your feet. In grass or sand, choose a block heel.
  • Bag: a small clutch or satin minaudière.
  • Jewelry: choose either statement earrings or a necklace, not both, and match your metals.
  • Layers: a pashmina, wrap or tailored evening jacket in a matching tone.

Hair and makeup

A polished style, such as an updo, a sleek low pony or soft waves, and makeup a notch more than daytime: defined eyes or a stronger lip, not both at full volume.

If you are unsure

When in doubt, go longer and richer. A floor-length dress is never wrong at a black tie optional wedding, while a short day dress might be. See our what to wear to a wedding overview and the semi-formal dress code for the levels below. The Wedding Guest Edit lays out every dress code with sixteen outfit formulas.

Before you buy

Questions people ask about this

What does black tie optional mean for women?

A floor-length gown or dressy midi in an elegant fabric, with polished shoes. It is formal, but a full ball gown is not required.

Can I wear a short dress to a black tie optional wedding?

A short cocktail dress is usually too casual. A dressy midi or tea-length dress in satin or crepe is often fine, and a floor-length dress is the safest choice.

Can I wear a jumpsuit to a black tie optional event?

Yes, if it is formal: satin or crepe, a wide leg or a long silhouette, with statement jewelry and heels.

What is the difference between black tie and black tie optional?

Black tie expects floor-length formal wear. Black tie optional allows a dressy midi or a very elegant separates look, while still asking for formal fabrics and finishes.

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