Balayage: what it is, how it differs from highlights, and what to ask for
What balayage is, how it compares with highlights, babylights and ombre, who it suits, popular shades, what to ask your colorist and how to care for it.
The short answer
Balayage is lightener painted freehand on the surface of the hair for a soft, sun-kissed result. It grows out without a harsh line, so appointments can be 3 to 4 months apart. Highlights use foils from the root and need touch-ups every 6 to 8 weeks.
- Dark hair often needs foilyage to lift enough.
- Bring photos on hair your natural color and ask about toner and bond care.
Balayage is a hair coloring technique, not a color: the colorist paints lightener freehand onto the surface of the hair, heavier toward the ends, so it brightens the way the sun would. Because there is no hard line at the roots, it grows out softly and can go 3 to 4 months between appointments. Below is how balayage differs from highlights and ombré, who it suits, the main shades, and what to ask for.
Balayage vs highlights vs ombré
| Technique | How it is done | Result | Grow-out |
|---|---|---|---|
| Balayage | Painted freehand on the surface, more toward the ends | Soft, natural, sun-kissed | Soft; 3 to 4 months between visits |
| Foil highlights | Fine sections lightened in foils from the root | Even, brighter all over | Visible line; 6 to 8 weeks |
| Babylights | Very fine foiled highlights | Subtle brightness | Soft-ish; 8 to 10 weeks |
| Ombré | Dark roots fading to light ends, one gradient | Bold contrast | Very soft; months |
| Foilyage | Balayage painting wrapped in foil | Brighter balayage | Soft; 3 months |
Dark hair often needs foilyage rather than open-air balayage to lift enough.
Who suits balayage
- Brunettes wanting brightness without upkeep: caramel or honey balayage is the classic.
- Blondes wanting more dimension and a softer root.
- Long and medium hair show the gradient best; on very short hair it reads as highlights.
- Wavy and curly hair suit it well because the painted pieces follow the movement.
Popular balayage shades
- Caramel balayage on brown hair.
- Honey balayage on dark blonde or light brown.
- Ash or mushroom balayage on cool brunettes.
- Copper balayage on auburn and red hair.
- Bronde balayage for a soft blend between brown and blonde.
See brown hair colors and blonde hair colors for which shades suit your undertone.
What to ask your colorist
- Bring photos of balayage on hair your natural color, not three shades lighter.
- Say how low-maintenance you want it: "lived-in" means more natural root.
- Ask whether they will use foilyage on dark hair, and whether a toner or gloss is included.
- Ask about a bond-building treatment to protect the hair.
- Expect the first appointment to take 2 to 4 hours.
Aftercare
Use a color-safe shampoo, a weekly mask, heat protectant before styling, and a purple or blue shampoo once a week if the lighter pieces turn brassy. A gloss between appointments keeps the tone fresh.
Do a patch test 48 hours before any dye, even one you have used before: the FDA notes that hair dyes can cause allergic reactions, and the risk can appear after years of use.
Balayage shades by color season
Balayage adds a second color next to your face, so it should come from your season. Warm seasons take warm ribbons: copper and strawberry for a True Spring, honey and golden-mushroom blends for a Soft Autumn, copper and caramel for a True Autumn. Cool seasons take beige, champagne and ash, as a Light Summer or True Summer does. Deep, high-contrast coloring is the exception: caramel balayage usually softens a Deep Winter too much, and golden-caramel shades dull a Bright Winter's eyes.
Read next: Peekaboo Hair: Hidden Color Ideas and Upkeep · Semi-Permanent Hair Dye: How Long It Lasts
Questions people ask about this
What is balayage?
A freehand coloring technique where lightener is painted onto the surface of the hair, heavier toward the ends, for a soft, sun-kissed result with no harsh root line.
What is the difference between balayage and highlights?
Highlights are lightened in foils from the root in even sections, giving a brighter all-over result with a visible grow-out line. Balayage is painted freehand, softer and grows out without a line.
How long does balayage last?
Usually 3 to 4 months between appointments, sometimes longer, because there is no hard root line. A toner or gloss in between keeps the tone fresh.
Does balayage work on dark hair?
Yes. Caramel and honey balayage are classics on brunettes, though dark hair often needs foilyage to lift enough.
