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A beautiful woman in a fitted camel cashmere turtleneck tucked into a cream satin midi skirt, one hand at her waist
Fashion · 7 min read

Cashmere sweaters: how to tell good cashmere and make it last

Cashmere sweaters explained: what makes quality cashmere, ply, gauge and fiber length, the styles worth owning, how to wash and store it, and pilling.

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The short answer

Quality cashmere has long fibers, 2-ply yarn and a dense, even knit. Rub the surface in the shop; quick pilling means short fibers. Hand wash cool, dry flat, and fold to store.

  • Remove pills gently with a cashmere comb; good cashmere pills less over time.
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A good cashmere sweater is one of the warmest, softest things you can own, and with the right care it lasts for many years. But quality varies enormously, and price alone does not tell you whether a cashmere sweater will pill within weeks or soften beautifully over time. Here is how to tell good cashmere, the styles worth owning, how to wash and store it, and how to deal with pilling.

What makes good cashmere?

Signs of quality cashmere
FactorWhat to look forWhy it matters
Fiber lengthLong fibers (often marketed as Grade A)Longer fibers pill less and last longer
Ply2-ply for everyday sweatersTwo twisted yarns are stronger than one
Gauge (knit density)Tight, even knitDenser knits hold their shape and pill less
Content100% cashmere, or a clearly stated blendBlends can be fine but should say so
FinishSoft but not fuzzy in the shopVery fuzzy new cashmere often pills fast

Hold the sweater up to the light; you should not see much light through a quality knit.

How to check cashmere in the shop

  • Stretch a small section gently; it should spring back.
  • Rub the surface; if little balls form quickly, it will pill a lot.
  • Look at the seams and cuffs for neat, even linking.
  • Read the label for fiber content and care.

Our guide to how to spot well-made clothes covers more, and wool vs cashmere vs merino explains when another fiber suits you better.

Cashmere sweater styles worth owning

  • Crew neck: the most versatile; tuck it into trousers or wear it with jeans.
  • V-neck: flattering layered over a shirt or on its own.
  • Turtleneck: elegant and warm under a wool coat.
  • Cardigan: a soft layer for every season; see cardigans.
  • Oversized: cozy with slim trousers or a slip skirt.

Cream, oatmeal, camel, gray and navy are the easiest colors to wear with everything.

How to wash cashmere

  1. Wash after several wears, not every time; air it between wears.
  2. Hand wash in cool water with a wool or cashmere detergent, or use a wool cycle in a mesh bag.
  3. Do not wring; press out water gently, then roll it in a towel.
  4. Dry flat, reshaping it, away from heat and sun.
  5. Never tumble dry.

Always check the care label; see laundry care symbols.

Why cashmere pills, and what to do

All cashmere pills a little, especially where it rubs, such as under the arms and at the sides. Pilling is worst in the first few wears and with shorter fibers. Remove pills with a cashmere comb or fabric shaver, gently, on a flat surface. A good sweater pills less with time as loose fibers come away.

Can you wear cashmere every day?

Yes, but rest it a day between wears so the fibers recover their shape, and rotate two or three sweaters in cold months.

How to store cashmere

  • Fold, never hang, which stretches the shoulders.
  • Store clean, since moths are drawn to body oils and food marks.
  • Use breathable cotton bags and cedar for moth protection.
  • Check stored knits every few months.

How to style a cashmere sweater

  • Tucked into wide trousers with loafers; see loafers for women.
  • With wide leg jeans and ballet flats on weekends.
  • Over a slip skirt for a soft evening look.
  • Draped over the shoulders of a shirt.

Cashmere blends: are they worth it?

Cashmere blended with wool or silk can be a good choice: wool adds durability, silk adds sheen and lightness. Blends with a high share of acrylic or polyester usually pill faster and feel less soft over time. Read the label and look for the cashmere percentage, which should be stated clearly.

Is expensive cashmere worth it?

A well-made cashmere sweater worn often for years can cost less per wear than several cheap ones that pill and lose shape; see cost per wear. Mid-priced cashmere can be very good if the knit is dense and the fibers long. Very cheap cashmere often uses short fibers and loose knits that pill quickly.

Before you buy

Questions people ask about this

How can you tell good quality cashmere?

Look for a dense, even knit, 2-ply yarn, a clearly labeled fiber content, and a surface that does not ball up when rubbed. It should spring back when stretched.

Why does my cashmere sweater pill?

Friction pulls loose fibers into balls, especially with shorter fibers and loose knits. Remove pills gently with a cashmere comb or fabric shaver.

How do you wash a cashmere sweater?

Hand wash in cool water with a wool detergent or use a wool cycle in a mesh bag, press out water without wringing, and dry flat.

Should cashmere be hung or folded?

Folded. Hanging stretches the shoulders and length.

Is expensive cashmere worth it?

Often, if it is dense and made from long fibers. A well-made sweater worn for years can cost less per wear than several cheap ones.

How often should you wash cashmere?

After several wears, unless stained. Airing it between wears keeps it fresh.

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