Hair types: the 1A to 4C chart, how to find yours and care for it
The hair types chart from 1A to 4C explained, how to find your hair type, why porosity and density matter too, and how to care for straight to coily hair.
The short answer
Hair types run from 1 (straight) to 4 (coily), each split into A, B and C: twelve types from 1A to 4C. Find yours by air-drying clean hair with no product and checking the pattern and curl width. Porosity, density and strand thickness matter as much as curl pattern for choosing products.
- Straight hair needs light products; curly and coily hair needs moisture and gentle detangling.
- Tight braids and ponytails can cause traction hair loss, so keep styles loose at the hairline.
Hair types are usually described with the 1 to 4 chart: 1 is straight, 2 wavy, 3 curly and 4 coily, each split into A, B and C from looser to tighter. The chart was popularized by stylist Andre Walker in the 1990s, and it is useful for choosing products and cuts, but it only describes curl pattern. Two other things matter just as much: porosity (how easily your hair absorbs water) and density and thickness. Below is the full hair type chart, how to find yours, and how to care for each type.
Hair type chart
| Type | Pattern | Looks like | Main challenge |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1A | Straight, fine | Flat, very smooth, shiny | Gets oily fast, holds no curl |
| 1B | Straight with some body | Medium texture, slight bend at the ends | Can look flat at the roots |
| 1C | Straight, coarse | Thick, may have a slight wave | Frizz in humidity |
| 2A | Loose waves | Soft S-shape, mostly straight at the roots | Weighed down by heavy products |
| 2B | Defined waves | S-waves from mid-length | Frizz at the crown |
| 2C | Strong waves | Deep S-waves, some ringlets | Frizz; waves drop out |
| 3A | Loose curls | Large springy loops, about the width of a candle | Definition fades |
| 3B | Springy curls | Ringlets about the width of a marker | Dryness, frizz |
| 3C | Tight curls | Corkscrews about the width of a pencil or straw | Shrinkage, dryness |
| 4A | Soft coils | Tight S-coils about the width of a crochet needle | Dryness, shrinkage |
| 4B | Z-pattern coils | Sharp zig-zag angles rather than curls | Breakage, tangles |
| 4C | Tightly packed coils | Very tight zig-zags, up to about 75% shrinkage | Dryness, breakage, tangles |
Most heads have more than one type: the crown is often tighter than the sides. Go by the pattern you see most.
How do you find your hair type?
- Wash with a gentle shampoo and conditioner, no styling products.
- Let it air-dry completely without touching, brushing or scrunching.
- Look at the pattern in the middle and ends: straight (1), S-shaped waves (2), loops and ringlets (3), or tight coils and zig-zags (4).
- Judge the width of the curls against a candle, marker, pencil or straw to choose A, B or C.
The other things that matter: porosity, density and thickness
| Property | What it means | How to tell | What it changes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Low porosity | The cuticle is tight, so water and products sit on top | Hair takes a long time to get wet and to dry | Use lightweight products and a little warmth when conditioning |
| High porosity | The cuticle is open, often from heat, color or bleach | Hair soaks up water and dries fast, often frizzy | Use richer creams and seal with an oil |
| Density | How many hairs per square inch | How much scalp shows when hair is parted | How much volume a cut can carry |
| Thickness (strand width) | Fine, medium or coarse strands | Roll one hair between your fingers: barely felt is fine | How much product it can take before going limp |
Fine, low-density hair needs light products whatever its curl type; coarse, dense hair can take heavier ones.
How do you care for each hair type?
Type 1: straight
Straight hair shows oil fastest because sebum travels down it easily. Use a lightweight shampoo, condition only the lengths, and use dry shampoo between washes. Volume comes from the cut and a root lift, not from heavy products.
Type 2: wavy
Waves are easy to weigh down. Use light mousse or gel, scrunch it in while hair is wet, and avoid brushing once dry. A diffuser on low heat keeps waves from dropping.
Type 3: curly
Curls need moisture and definition. Wash less often, use a rich conditioner, apply a leave-in and a cream or gel on soaking-wet hair, and detangle with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while conditioner is in. Sleeping on a silk pillowcase reduces frizz.
Type 4: coily
Coily hair is the most fragile, because each bend is a weak point. Moisturize often, seal with an oil or butter, detangle gently in sections, keep heat low, and choose protective styles. The American Academy of Dermatology warns that tight braids, weaves and ponytails can cause traction hair loss, so keep styles loose at the hairline.
Choosing a cut for your type
Wavy and curly hair usually looks best with layers that remove weight (see our shag haircut guide); straight fine hair often looks fuller with blunt ends. For length ideas, see our long hairstyles and short hairstyles, and for protective styles, braid hairstyles. General care advice from the American Academy of Dermatology: conditioner after every wash, gentle drying and less heat.
Questions people ask about this
What are the different hair types?
Type 1 is straight, type 2 wavy, type 3 curly and type 4 coily. Each splits into A, B and C from looser to tighter, giving twelve types from 1A to 4C.
How do I know my hair type?
Wash without styling products, let it air-dry untouched, then look at the pattern in the mid-lengths and ends. Compare curl width to a candle, marker, pencil or straw to pick A, B or C.
What is 4C hair?
The tightest coil pattern, with very small zig-zag coils that can shrink up to about 75% of their length. It needs frequent moisture, gentle detangling and low heat.
Can you have more than one hair type?
Yes, most people do. The crown is often curlier than the sides or underneath. Go by the pattern you see most, and treat tighter sections a little more gently.
What is hair porosity?
How easily hair absorbs and holds water. Low-porosity hair takes long to get wet and suits light products; high-porosity hair soaks water up fast, often from damage, and suits richer creams sealed with oil.
