Pearl necklace guide: types, lengths, quality and care
A pearl necklace guide: freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea pearls, which length to choose, how to judge quality, spot fakes and care for pearls.
The short answer
Pearl types: freshwater (affordable), Akoya (round, high luster), Tahitian (dark) and South Sea (large, most expensive). A princess length of about 17 to 19 inches is the most versatile first pearl necklace. Judge quality by luster first, then surface, shape, color and matching. Real pearls feel gritty against your teeth; fakes feel smooth.
- Last on, first off: keep pearls away from perfume and hairspray and store them flat.
A pearl necklace is one of the few pieces that suits every age and almost every outfit, from a white tee to a black dress. What decides how good one looks is not the price tag but five things you can see: luster, surface, shape, color and how well the pearls match. Below are the main types of pearls, necklace lengths, how to judge quality, how to spot fakes and how to care for pearls so they last generations.
Types of pearls
| Type | Grown in | Typical size | Look | Price level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Freshwater | Mussels, mainly in China | 4 to 12 mm | Soft luster, many shapes and pastel colors | Most affordable |
| Akoya | Saltwater oysters, Japan and China | 6 to 9 mm | Round, very high mirror-like luster, white | Mid to high |
| Tahitian | Black-lipped oysters, French Polynesia | 8 to 14 mm | Dark grey, green, peacock tones | High |
| South Sea | Silver- or gold-lipped oysters, Australia, Indonesia, Philippines | 9 to 20 mm | Large, satiny, white or golden | Highest |
Almost all pearls sold today are cultured, meaning a farmer started them. Natural pearls are rare and very expensive.
Pearl facts here follow the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
Pearl necklace lengths
| Length | Inches | Sits | Wear with |
|---|---|---|---|
| Collar | 12 to 13 | Around the middle of the neck | Open necklines, evening |
| Choker | 14 to 16 | At the base of the neck | Almost anything; the modern classic |
| Princess | 17 to 19 | On the collarbone | Crew necks, shirts; the most versatile |
| Matinee | 20 to 24 | Above the bust | Work wear, high necklines |
| Opera | 28 to 35 | At or below the bust | Can be doubled; evening |
| Rope | 36 and longer | Long, often knotted or wrapped | Layered, dramatic looks |
A princess length (about 18 inches) is the safest first pearl necklace.
How do you judge pearl quality?
GIA uses seven pearl value factors. The ones you can check in a shop:
- Luster: the most important. Good pearls reflect sharp light, like a mirror; poor ones look chalky.
- Surface: few spots, bumps or cracks.
- Shape: round is most valued, but baroque (irregular) pearls are fashionable and cheaper.
- Color and overtone: a rosy, silver or cream tint over the body color.
- Matching: pearls on one strand should look alike in size, color and luster.
Size and nacre thickness also matter; thin nacre can wear through to the bead.
How do you tell if pearls are real?
- Tooth test: rub a pearl gently against the edge of your front teeth. Real pearls feel slightly gritty; fakes feel smooth like glass.
- Look closely: real pearls vary slightly from each other; identical pearls are often fake.
- Knots: fine pearl strands are knotted between each pearl.
- Weight and temperature: real pearls feel cool and slightly heavy; plastic feels light and warm.
How do you care for a pearl necklace?
- Last on, first off: put pearls on after perfume, hairspray and makeup.
- Wipe after wearing with a soft cloth.
- Store flat in a soft pouch, away from harder jewelry that can scratch.
- Never use ultrasonic cleaners or harsh chemicals.
- Restring every few years if worn often; silk stretches.
Pearls are June's birthstone; see birthstones by month. For earrings, see our pearl earrings guide, and to combine pearls with gold, layered necklaces.
Read next: Gold Bracelets for Women: Styles, Karat, Sizing · Gold Chain Types: How to Choose Length and Width · Gold Hoop Earrings: Sizes, Styles and How to Choose
Questions people ask about this
What is the best length for a pearl necklace?
A princess length, about 17 to 19 inches, which sits on the collarbone. It works with crew necks, shirts and open necklines, so it is the most versatile first pearl necklace.
What are the different types of pearls?
Freshwater (most affordable, many colors), Akoya (round, high luster, white), Tahitian (dark, peacock tones) and South Sea (large, white or golden, most expensive). Almost all are cultured.
How can you tell if pearls are real?
Rub a pearl gently against your front teeth: real pearls feel slightly gritty, fakes feel smooth. Real pearls also vary slightly, are knotted between each pearl, and feel cool and heavy.
How do you take care of a pearl necklace?
Put it on last and take it off first, wipe it after wearing, store it flat in a soft pouch, avoid chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners, and restring it every few years if worn often.
Are pearls in style?
Pearls have been a constant for decades and are worn now in many ways: a classic strand with a tee, baroque pearls with gold chains, and single pearl pendants.
